I suppose I should write something about
the wanderlust that gripped me. Wanderlust—that’s
a good word.
In the old days if a person was curious
about a word, the ultimate authority was the Oxford English Dictionary, sized
at 20 thick volumes and these days priced at $1215 on Amazon. I, however, have the microprint edition of two
massive volumes which, when I bought it years ago, cost a lot less that twelve
hundred bucks and came with a magnifying glass.
Even better, the marvel of electronics has today given me a little
clicker thingy with which I can go searching the internet until, out of the
millions of definitions, I find one I like.
So it is that back in the mists of time,
people used the Old English word wandrian to mean "move
about aimlessly, wander” and lust to stand for “pleasure.”
So it is here that I will write about wanderlust,
the pleasure of moving about aimlessly, as I experienced it.
I decided one morning that I would ride
the Montrose Avenue bus to the eastern end of its line, near Lake Michigan. It would be the first of my longer ramblings
out of the neighborhood, and it would be memorable because I chose a miserable,
lousy, freezing-cold day.
Anyway, off I went, grabbing a window
seat on the curb side of the bus so that I could get a glimpse of the Chicago
River. For certain, the Chicago River is
no Nile, no Mississippi. Downtown in the
Loop the Chicago River does have enough width and depth so that excursion and
pleasure craft can plod through it. But
out here in the hinterlands, as I was soon to see, a glimpse of the river equals
an eyeful.
On the bus a bridge showed up, and then
we were on it, and then we were off it on the other side, and I had glimpsed
the Chicago River, at least the part of it that flows in this area of town, and
what I glimpsed was a murky, narrow canal.
Later I learned that I had not seen the river proper but a fork or a
branch, I’m not sure which.
I was doing this in April, the off season. It was cold and windy when I got off the bus
at its turn-around point on Marine Drive.
I had the place pretty much to myself.
No one was in the water (whitecaps and rollers)—no surprise there. A few people were walking dogs, and some sturdy
souls were out on the sand, strolling, while doing what is a common activity in
Chicago, leaning into the wind. I walked
to the harbor, took in one quick view of the boats, and decided it was time to
go home.
Some of my aimless roaming wasn’t so aimless. I needed an innertube for my bike, and I could
have bought one close to home. But the
Montgomery Ward catalog showed one, and there was a Monkey Ward catalog store near
downtown. To the fine people at Montgomery
Ward, it’s not a store but a “Catalog House.”
A Milwaukee Avenue streetcar took me to
Montgomery Ward’s Catalog House, located along the North Branch of the Chicago
River, which looked a lot like the same murky, narrow canal I could see miles to the north. I placed my order
and hung around, awaiting someone to appear with my bike’s inner tube. Soon someone did, a man who handed me a box
and ushered me to a booth where I could sit in a chair, place the box on a
table, and “examine my purchase.”
“Examine my purchase?” What’s to examine with an inner tube? I was being treated like a prized customer,
not some off-the-street high school kid.
And I really couldn’t tell if the inner tube was any good unless I
pumped air into it, and I didn’t see a compressor or an air hose and air chuck
anywhere around, so I told the man it was fine, paid my money, and left.
One the way to and from Montgomery Ward’s,
the streetcar rolled through one of the largest Polish enclaves in the
world. For block after block after
block, the people, the language, the newspapers, the shops—all were Polish.
My favorite place on any streetcar ride
was the back platform where people got on and where the conductor collected
fares. Even though the back platform was
noisy and drafty, quite a few riders liked to stand back there, and talk was
louder and more animated there than in the main part of the car.
In the Polish neighborhood, I couldn't
understand a word of the conversations that floated around the back of the
streetcar, but I was impressed. Awed is
probably a better word. Here were these
people, uprooted from their homes, but they had brought a piece of their
homeland with them. What did it take to
do that? I wondered.
For the price of seven cents adult fare,
up from the three cents I paid when I was under thirteen, the Milwaukee Avenue
streetcar took me through Little Poland, a foreign land but safe because it was
on the North Side.
I also rode the Milwaukee Avenue
streetcar the other direction, to its turn-around point at the far northwestern
corner of the city limits. Here the
streetcar trundled slowly around a small semicircle before heading back to Little
Poland.
At the turn-around point there began a
stretch of something that was pure genius when it comes to urban planning, one
of Cook County's Forest Preserves. In
the laying out of a great city, the powers that be had set off land to be left
untouched. This land, stretches of dense
woods along the Chicago and the Des Plaines rivers, became the Forest
Preserves.
Indian tribes had lived among the trees
that became the Forest Preserves, and it was still easy to play Indian in the
woods and along the river. Families and
troops of Girl Scouts and Boy Scouts held outings in the Forest Preserves.
Near the end of the Milwaukee Avenue line
were two other popular sites, a toboggan run and a large public swimming pool. In the summer, on hot nights, I would come to
the pool and splash around to cool off. In
the winter my friends and I would rent a toboggan at the warming hut and—yelling
and laughing—career down an icy run to slide to a stop just sort of the trees
at the end.
From the end of the streetcar line, I
walked alongside the winding North Branch of the Chicago River, following the
current toward the heart of the city.
Sometimes the North Branch had plenty of water; other times it was so
shallow that a person could step across it on rocks that jutted up from the
bed. And it was hard to think that this
was the same river as the murky green canal I saw elsewhere. Here, when I walked across the river on rocks
at its shallowest places, I could look down at my feet and see the bed, shiny pebbles
glistening in the water.
Suburbs to the left, the city to the
right, millions of people out of sight.
In the woods, it was hard to imagine a great metropolis a mile or so
away, just beyond the edge of the trees.
Still, there were artifacts. Not animal bones cast off by a tribe of
Indians after a great feast, but instead a beer bottle here, a condom there, remnants
of a modern-day tribe known as the Indifferent Slobs.
After a walk of about four miles, I
arrived at Gompers Park. At Gompers
Park, I took the Pulaski Road streetcar south to my neighborhood. Gompers Park was named for Samuel Gompers,
founder and long-time president of the American Federation of Labor; Pulaski
Road was named for Casimir Pulaski, a Polish nobleman who fought for the
American colonists in our revolution.
The Irish ran Chicago, but the unions and the Poles were not about to be
overlooked.
Incidentally, I could've stayed on the
Pulaski Road streetcar for another half hour and been in the South Side. That, of course, was taboo.
I should mention that I was a “primitive”
hiker in that I had no special equipment that is commonplace today. I wore the same clothes that I wore to school,
with loafers or sometimes gym shoes on my feet. I carried no food or water; if
there was such a thing as a water bottle, I probably didn’t know about it. I simply stepped out my front door and went.
I also did some of my aimless moving
about on a bicycle. When I was fifteen or thereabouts, a neighbor boy and I
took off on our bicycles for a ride through northern Illinois. This was a stupid
boy stunt, for our supplies consisted of nothing more than a little money and a
blanket each—no water, no food, no map—we obviously suffered from common-sense
deficit disorder. Three days after leaving home, we were back, having eaten
wherever we could buy food, and sleeping at night in the open, a great
adventure for a couple city kids.
As my mother said, I had ants in my
pants.
Chow Time
When it comes to eating, I made these
jaunts on the cheap. Supper at home was
the meal of the day, unless I had money.
When I could afford it, I’d treat myself to a burger at a White Castle,
but that wasn’t always for certain because the closest White Castle was on
Addison in the 3200 block, sometimes off my route for the day.
Incidentally, a white Castle is still
there today, same place, all these years later.
I recommend the bacon
jalapeño cheeseburger; that’s my favorite, and I’m still here, all these years
later.
But where I really liked to eat when I
was on my own was at one of the street vendors.
You saw these at many major intersections on streetcar and bus routes, a
man standing by his cart. Steam billowed
up from the cart signifying the presence of hot dogs, or at the cart across the
intersection, hot tamales.
I would get off the streetcar at Montrose
and Milwaukee, order my favorite deluxe cuisine according to my adolescent palate—a
hot dog with onions, mustard, and relish—and sit on the curb or in the doorway
of a nearby business to eat it. At that
moment, that was all in the world I needed.
I don’t want to get too carried away here
because something better came along.
One night, two other boys and I, having
finished our duties at the factory where we worked, were walking along Belmont talking
about getting something to eat. They
stopped, turned to me, and asked if I ever had had pizza.
Ahead of us was a neon sign: “Pizzeria.”
I answered No to their question, and we
went in. They ordered from a woman at
the front who was punching keys on the cash register and answering the phone. We paid and sat in booth near the back where
a man was throwing dough into the air and sliding pans into and out of an oven. Our order came, and we ate it.
God!
It was delicious! Two
kinds of hot—hot out of the oven and spicy hot—far tastier than the skilletized
dishes I got at home.
As I wrote earlier, I don’t want
to get too carried away, but it really was a great experience.
From: chicagomag.com/city-life/9-stereotypes-about-chicago-that-are-no-longer-true/
“We eat deep dish pizza: When Jay Leno broadcast a week of the Tonight Show from Chicago in the 1990s, one of
his gags was a hotel that left a deep-dish pizza on the pillow instead of a
mint. Yes, deep-dish pizza was invented in Chicago, allegedly at Pizzeria Uno,
which opened on the Near North Side in 1943. And Chicago is still the capital of deep-dish, the staple offering not
only of Uno, but of Lou Malnati’s, Giordano’s, and Gino’s East, to name four
tourist trap restaurants.
“Most Chicagoans prefer thin crust, tavern-style pizza, which has its own Chicago origin story: here pizza was
served mostly in taverns, often as an enticement to drink alcohol. Since
taverns didn’t have silverware or plates, the owners sliced the pizza into
little squares, which could be set on napkins. Chicago tavern owners
hand-rolled their dough, instead of hand-tossing it, eventually using
mechanical sheeters, which produced an even thinner crust.”
35. Moving about Aimlessly
with Max
Max introduced me to a part of the Fox River
Valley more rustic than the built‑up area around Elgin. Max was a year older than me to the day. We met in high school band. He was the American‑born, adopted son of
German immigrants. He and his parents
were Turners, members of the Turnverein, a German athletic and social
club. The Illinois Turners operated a
summer resort on the Fox River.
During summer vacation, Max and I would
spend a few days at his parents' cabin at the Turner resort. To get there we rode the Chicago and Northwestern
Railroad, getting on at the Irving Park Road station near our homes.
The Northwestern operated coal‑burning,
steam‑powered locomotives. These were
black behemoths that sported a menacing cowcatcher up front, a bell and whistle
near the smokestack, pipes and tubes for lubricating oil and sand for traction,
and enough wheels and pistons and connecting rods and sundry other gadgets and
mechanisms to make a person wonder how the whole thing worked. Truly it was an engine with a personality.
The engineer always seemed to be leaning
out his small window, his jaw set in square lines, his eyes staring straight
ahead, his hand on the throttle or brake or whistle rope or bell cord. At his side the fireman furiously shoveled
coal from the coal car into the flaming maw of the boiler.
The Northwestern was peculiar in that its
trains ran on the left side of the road; it was a “southpaw” railroad and the
only such railroad in the United States.
This subject came up from time to time in articles in Chicago newspapers
and in books about the railroad. These
sources never explained why the trains ran on the “wrong” side but presented
two theories: (1) the early British influence in financing and planning the
original line, and (2) an unplanned growth when the original single‑track line
was converted to double‑track.
The train that Max and I took quickly
left the city and its northwestern suburbs and then rolled across farmland; the
train passed through Barrington where my maternal grandparents had operated a dairy
farm. Our destination was Fox River
Grove, a village famous for the Norge Ski Club's international ski jumping
contest. The area around Fox River Grove
was strictly rural, with pleasant country roads great for ambling along on a
warm summer day.
At the Fox River Grove station, Max and I
got off the train, walked a short distance on a paved road, then cut across a
farmer's pasture to get to the Turner resort.
This shortcut fell under the heading of stupid boy stunts, for rumor had
it that the farmer kept a bull in his pasture (we never saw the bull). At the Turner resort, we would spend several
days lolling about in the sun, swimming in the Fox River, and indulging in
other useless activities.
My parents were more housebound than I
was. My mother seldom left the house
other than to go to work, do the family shopping, or go to the Household
Finance Company office where she made the monthly payment on the current loan. My father was more mobile, going to ball
games, and taking me to union meetings with him. On the occasional Saturday when he worked, he
would invite me to eat lunch with him at Pixley & Ehler's, a well‑known
cafeteria in the Loop. If I wanted to
kill an entire Saturday when he was working, I went to the factory with him.
Watching him work fascinated me. At one end of a long table a spindle held a
bolt of cloth. He would grab the end of
the cloth by hand and walk the length of the table, the cloth unrolling from
its bolt, billowing up, then slowly settling on the table. At the far end of the table he would reverse
his steps, now using his hands to smooth wrinkles out of the cloth as he walked
back to the spindle. There he would take
a large scissor, cut the cloth off its bolt, and begin all over again, often
putting a bolt of a different color on the spindle.
He seemed to glide back and forth
alongside the table, not paying much attention to what he was doing, maybe
chatting with another employee. And
while I was distracted by his effortless movements, the pile of cloth
rose. Soon it was time to overlay the
pattern onto the cloth, then cut the cloth.
Cutting was done with an electric knife resembling a jigsaw. The blade whirred up and down, close to his
fingers that held the cloth flat. After
decades as a garment cutter, he still had all his fingertips.
Occasionally, during the summers of my
years at Belding, my father and I went to the Montrose Avenue Beach for a swim.
We were an odd couple on the beach, the scrawny runt of a kid and the short,
potbellied, gray‑haired man. While I
splashed around in the shallow water, he waded out until the water got too deep
for him to walk in. Then he flopped onto his back and floated, his white, round
belly sticking up out the water, looking like some sea creature about to
breach.